What's the best way to care for wood furniture? Ask a
few different people, and you'll probably get a few different
answers. But the experts agree on a few wood-care basics.
Review these guidelines from Charles Sutton, president
of Sutton House Furniture, and a designer and consultant
for fine furniture manufacturers.
With a little tender loving care, your beautiful hardwood
furniture can last a lifetime and beyond.
"Care entails understanding the nature of wood as
well as knowing how to prolong the life of the finish
film that protects the wood,'' says Sutton.
He says changes in relative humidity are wood's No.
1 enemy.
Sutton suggests trying to keep your home's temperature
to 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Relative humidity should
be 50 percent to 55 percent. Specific levels, however,
are not as important as avoiding radical swings in
the temperature and the amount of moisture in the air.
Other tips from Sutton on dealing with expansion and
contraction include:
1. If furniture is to be stored, it generally does
better in an unheated environment because the relative
humidity will fluctuate within a much narrower range.
Air can hold more moisture at a high temperature than
at a low one.
2. Wood can best handle temperature changes and relative
humidity if they occur gradually. Abrupt changes (closing
or opening a vacation home, for example) can stress
your furniture.
3. When air conditioning your home, keep the intake
of outside humid air to a minimum.
4. Add humidifiers or vaporizing units to a heating/air
conditioning central system to help stabilize the humidity
level.
5. Use dehumidifiers during wet, rainy times and in
damp rooms to remove excess moisture from the air.
Your mother was right: DUST FREQUENTLY.
DO NOT USE A FEATHER DUSTER because it will simply
move dust around, flinging it into the air. Feather
dusters can't be washed, and a quill could scratch
the wood surface if a feather breaks off. Dust is abrasive
so infrequent or improper dusting can create a worn,
dull surface over the years. Dust can accumulate in
carvings, cracks and grooves and make wood look dark
and unattractive. This dusty buildup eventually becomes
hard to remove.
BE VERY CAREFUL USING WATER to clean wood. Wood should
never get wet or soaked. Water can cause swelling,
warping or staining when it penetrates a finish. Use
coasters, pads, cloths or runners to protect against
spills and water rings.
How to Dust
You think you know how to dust? Here are some detailed
tips from the experts. Use a clean, washable cloth
made of soft, lint-free cotton. The best choices include
an old T- shirt, diaper, cheesecloth, dish towel, piece
of flannel, or chamois. The cloth should have no snaps,
buttons, zippers or thick seams that could scratch
furniture surfaces. Do not use a cloth that has hanging
threads or unraveling edges. These could catch on wood
slivers, molding, knobs or other loose pieces.
Dry Dusting Versus Damp Dusting
Many experts believe that dusting with a dry cloth
is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A
dry cloth will not really remove dust, they say.
These experts typically recommend sprinkling a few
drops of water onto the dusting cloth. The trick is
to moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere
to it. The cloth should not be so damp that it wets
the wood. If you can see any trace of water on the
wood after you wipe, your cloth is too damp. Some conservators
recommend using distilled water for heirlooms or antiques.
You might want to use a spray-on dusting aid or polish.
If so, consider whether you want to apply silicone
oil to your finishes. This type of oil is used in most
commercial furniture sprays and polishes. To find out
if your product contains silicone oil, consult the
label or call the manufacturer.
Follow the Grain
Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the
grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth as soon as
dirt is visible on any section. Keep a pile of clean
cloths handy so you don't move dust and dirt from one
spot to another. Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects
to dust under and around them. Avoid soiling adjoining
upholstery. Launder soiled dusting cloths immediately.
Carefully Choose Wood Care Products
It's no wonder there's a lot of confusion about what
wood-care products to use. Store shelves are stacked
with countless brands of wax, polish, spray and oil.
Unless your furniture is sold as unfinished, or the
finish has deteriorated, when you clean your furniture
you're actually cleaning the finish, not the wood.
Proper care can prolong the life of a finish, making
the surface of furniture slippery so that objects slide
along it without scratching. For new furniture, read
manufacturers' tags and literature. Consider consulting
a conservator for tips on caring for especially valuable
antiques and heirlooms.
One common myth is that wood furniture is "alive." It
does not "breathe," so don't worry about clogging up
pores with wax. It does not need to be "nourished" or "fed''
with oily polishes. Changes in humidity, not a lack
of oil, cause wood to crack.
PASTE WAX has been used for centuries as a finishing
material and a furniture care product. If used properly,
paste wax will provide a thick, hard, lasting finish.
Liquid wax is similar, but typically provides a thinner
coating. Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract
dust and dirt. Paste wax typically lasts six months
to a couple years, depending on how much the furniture
is used and how many coats are applied. Paste wax will
help delay the formation of water rings, giving you
a little extra time to wipe up the moisture. Some people,
especially antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided
by waxes. Wax will not interfere with future refinishing.
Make sure you buy a wax designed especially for wood
furniture. Waxes for cars, shoes or other finishes
might harm furniture.
OILY CLEANERS and polishes will not provide a lasting,
hard coat. Those containing silicone oil will create
a nice shine and a slippery surface, but they can interfere
with refinishing. This type of oil can seep through
cracks in the finish into the wood. That can ruin the
new finish later. Be aware that labels often fail to
say whether products contain silicone oil. Follow the
manufacturers' instructions when using spray or liquid
polishes.
If you have waxed your furniture and want to switch
to an oil-based polish or vice-versa, first clean the
furniture with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax
remover. Do this in a spot with plenty of ventilation
away from any heat source or sparks. First test the
product you are using in an inconspicuous spot. When
the piece is clean and dry, wax or polish. If you accidentally
mix wax and oil, the finish will turn cloudy. In that
case, wipe the finish off and clean it with mineral
spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Wax or polish
when the finish is dry.
CLEAN BRASS HARDWARE with caution. If the brass hardware
on your furniture has a protective lacquer coating,
it probably will not tarnish and will only need to
be dusted. If the brass is tarnishing and you want
to polish it, either remove the brass or slide a piece
of mylar plastic behind the hardware so that the brass
cleaner does not touch the finish.
Watch the Humidity
Furniture ages more quickly if stored in a basement,
attic, garage or warehouse. Place furniture away from
all heat sources, if possible. If you must put furniture
near an air duct, use a shield or guard plate to direct
heat away.
Avoid placing furniture in front of radiators, heat
runs or fireplaces. Store table leaves as close as
possible to the table so they adjust to the same humidity
conditions.
Avoid Direct Sunlight
The ultraviolet rays of the sun will damage a finish
and bleach the wood underneath. Prolonged exposure
to sunlight can cause the finish to crack, sometimes
in a pattern resembling the skin of an alligator. Tablecloths
and doilies slow down the process, but they don't stop
it. Try to keep furniture out of direct sunlight. When
that's not possible, reduce the amount of light streaming
on any piece of furniture. Consider planting shrubs
in front of windows to block direct sunlight. Use window
shades, drapes or blinds to block light during the
time of day the furniture is exposed. Consider using
UV screening films or tinting windows and skylights.
Uniformly expose surfaces to light. Especially avoid
letting the sun hit only part of a surface. Occasionally
move lamps, doilies and other objects so the wood bleaches
uniformly. Consider covering furniture with sheets
or blankets if you leave your home for part of the
year. Consider moving furniture around periodically
so that the same piece does not absorb light all the
time. Remember that some bleaching can be desirable.
Antique collectors actually look for the rich, soft
tones that slight fading can bring.
Avoid Chemical Exposure
Keep solvents such as nail polish remover, alcohol
and paint thinner away from wood furniture because
they can harm the finish. Alcohol is contained in colognes,
perfumes and medications as well as in wine, beer and
liquor. Fingerprints, perspiration and body oils can
harm a finish over time, especially on chairs. Plants
and flower nectar that touch the finish can also cause
permanent stains.
Placing hot items on furniture can cause a chemical
change in the finish that results in white rings or
spots.
Keep Plastic Off Wood
Do not leave plastic objects lying on wood surfaces.
Color from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, wrappers,
place mats and toys can leach into wood over time.
Plastic can also stick to a finish, damaging it when
it is pulled up.
Guard Against Scratches
Lift, don't slide, objects on wood. Place objects
on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to
protect the finish. Use felt bottoms on lamps and other
decorative objects. Avoid brightly colored felt because
its color could leach into the wood. Some experts say
brown is the best color choice.
Carefully Move Furniture
Lift heavy furniture with the help of at least two
people. Sliding pieces could hurt the wood floor and
damage furniture legs by applying too much sideways
pressure. If a drawer has two handles, use both to
open it. Don't stuff drawers with too many items.
Sutton's book, "How to Care for Your Old and New Wood
Furniture," is sold by The Furniture Library, a research
center in High Point, N.C., at www.furniturelibrary.com.
Article reproduced with permission from Hardwood
Manufacturers Association.
